Chintsa West to uMzumbe
Sal had
advised us on how to safely travel through the what used to be called the Transkei,
Nelson Mandela’s birthplace and a
homeland, and has now been incorporated as part of the Eastern Cape of South
Africa. At campgrounds along the way, we had been advised to avoid this section
of the N2 for many reasons: potholed road, long delays in construction, much
domestic animal life on the highway, and personal safety We were delayed in
construction for 18 minutes at the beginning of our journey. While waiting (for
construction that no one was working at), this lady was selling peaches that
had a tree ripened fragrance and taste.
We passed
through the cities of Butterworth, Mthatha (home to the Nelson Mandela museum)
and Mount Frere. When passing through cities Sal had advised to keep the doors
locked. Each of the cities had a considerable different look than those we have
travelled through. Jack practiced his rally driving around heaps of strewn garbage
and people. The number of people on the street was amazing! The streets were
buzzing with life. More things for sale on the sidewalk lined with plastic
tarps or small stalls than in the shops behind them. One thing that remains
constant is the presence of KFC!
The trip was
long, but provided wonderful, relaxing scenery. Rondovals are still in use and
being constructed. We did see our share of domestic animals (donkeys, goats,
sheep, horses, cattle), most stuck to the shoulders and herders were usually
present. This drive, except for the cities, I would describe as peaceful. The
herders, towns that were not crowded but had gardens and space. If the Transkei
had remained an independent homeland it would be considered one of the poorest
countries in the world.
Throughout
our travels, people have often mistaken our big white bus for a Kombi taxi.
This day was no different. Many a person with their arm out were disappointed
as we neared.
We crossed
in KwaZulu Natal province and stopped at Kokstad for gas and pizza. Carrying
on, after nearly 8 hours of travel we arrived in uMzumbe, a small town on the
Indian Ocean. This section of coast is heavily populated with holiday homes. We
stayed at Mantis and Moon backpackers in a treehouse in a jungle! The girl who
showed us our treehouse said the sheets were clean, but geckos must poo
somewhere, so their excrement could be found on and in the bed.s Not only was it
in the beds, but down the walls as well. More house pets!
We all had
interesting reactions to our accommodation. Nate thought we should stay another
night. Jack felt claustrophobic. I was alarmed by the two large mastiffs that
growled from their treehouse at the entrance. Crime is high in this upscale
seaside town and dogs, along with electric fences, razor wire, and guards we
were told are necessary. I would not want a summer home anywhere here if that
is the lifestyle.
We decided
the appropriate crowd for this jungle scene had to be no more than 25 years old.
We had to check out by 10 in the morning as there was a wedding booked for the
weekend. Must have been Tarzan and Jane’s.
