The Last Leg

July 29 and 30

Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia to Tokyo, Japan

I was looking forward to this flight for a few reasons:
1. I needed the rest.
2. It is the last leg of our incredible journey.
3. I can't wait to be back in Japan. The icing on the cake!

Restful it was. I watched two movies, read some of my book and sat with my feet up.  Arriving at 10:15 PM immigration was quick, but it took a bit of time to sort out the trains/monorail to take to our airbnb. Our stop: Shin Okubo, right after Shinjuku, the busiest train station in the world. Ours is a Korean neighborhood with lots of life to it, but our apartment is down a very quiet alley.

Haneda airport.

The apartment is large by Japanese standards, something the boys are coming to appreciate. Jack and I have a bed, but the boys are on futons. The toilet is not as complex as the one in the airport, but it has the seat warmer on pretty high and we can't read any of the buttons to figure out how to turn it off.

There were many signs and instructions for the toilet in the airport. Seems complicated.

This should not be complicated but water seems to spray from everywhere!



Ahhh it is good to be here. It all comes back. The way the streets look, bonsais, vending machines, the calmness (even in Tokyo), the pachinko parlours, dried fish, much bowing, packed trains, cleanliness.

Pachinko parlour not too busy today.

As soon as we had the boys mobile this morning we went to Shinjuku train station to cash in the Japan Rail Vouchers we had bought in Australia for the actual travel ticket. Although expensive, the passes are more economical than buying individual train tickets and we plan to cover a lot of ground. This was easy. Next, to make train reservations. In January, before I left home I had recorded each train and its name and number along with departure and arrival time from each station along with what kind of train it was and if our pass would cover it. I tried to used the bullet rain as much as possible. Planning that far ahead I was hopeful the schedules had not changed. They hadn't, the trains were not booked up so I got each reservation I was hoping for.

Business taken care of, we went to see Shinjuku. Being almost noon, I had a craving for katsu don. Easily found, we ate, and enjoyed every bite.

If reading a Japanese menu is difficult, food is shellacked and placed in window cases to make ordering easy. I remember when I lived here and how independent I felt when I finally was able to read a menu and not have to take the waiter out into the street.

The Takashimaya Times Square holdsTokyu Hands, a seven floor store listed by Tourist Info as an interesting look. It was. I am a sucker for all the Japanese cutsie things.

The views from the Metropolitan Government Building were good even on this overcast day. We had thought of coming back this evening, but ran out of steam. Perhaps tomorrow night.

Yoyogi Park is a huge peaceful green space in the middle of a very congested city. After a walk through here our legs were done and we needed to head back.

Aren't they handsome?!

We have a kitchen, and I was looking for groceries to make something - anything at home. The Korean grocery store on our street had lots of options, but alas, I was a bit confused with what to do with most of the items for sale. If it didn't have a picture, we couldn't figure it out. Being illiterate is not a good feeling. Even a picture does not always help.

Decided on ready made sushi, gyosa, and those overly fatty, unhealthy instant noodles. My standards have dropped during this trip. We stooped to eating chip sandwiches one night. Get ready boys, it is whole wheat and salads when we get home!

Time to roll out the futons and get rested for another day in Tokyo.

Kuala Lumpur

July 27, 28

Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

The days fly by. We are close to the Petronas Towers, KLCC park and the 2 acres of play structures within. Nate could not wait. We were some of the few in the park, or maybe the unwise in the heat.

After a bit of play we made our way back to the apartment where the infinity pool waited. I was sick thinking someone would go over the edge.

Our evening plan was to take a walking tour of the neighborhood next to us - Kampong Bharu to learn more about the Malay culture. This Malay neighborhood is an interesting mix of new and traditional. Hundred year old homes exist in tranquil gardens with skyscrapers looming.

I did not realize such quiet could exist in this busy city. It seemed like a small-town yard. A few generations ago each Malay was given a parcel of land (approx. half an acre). Today, it has been passed down and some have chosen to maintain the original, where others use their plot to commercial purposes.

Traditional Malay houses, as many SE houses, are elevated to allow for floods and air flow.

Traditionally, when a Muslim woman gave birth, a member from the community would take care of her for 44 days. Feed her, massage her, bath her, clean her house. Those days are over. It has been replaced with this gift set. Hilarious.

Many herbalist stores exist in this community as it is cheaper than western medicine and some consider it safer. The perfect man? Worth a try.

Durian, the king of fruit. Based on smell I am sure. Wan, our guide, warned us to start with durian blended with something, then try it straight up. We tried durian chocolate and no one was willing to go any farther.

We tried putu bamboo, dessert of rice flour cooked in bamboo with cane sugar and coated with coconut. A mild dessert.

Got some fresh mangoes and bananas.

A Malaysian car wash.

Friday we thought we would ride the train to the Bantu Caves. The train ride was good, but we did not go up to the temple or the caves. The monkeys are relentless and the pigeons overwhelming. We have become shy of these aggressive monkeys so we got the next train back to the city.

Tomorrow, the 7 hour flight to Tokyo. Need to get the packs organized tonight; redistribute some weight between them and discard the unnecessary. We did a big purge in Bangkok; should not be too much to get rid of.

The Dollar Goes Far

July 26, 2017

Kuala Lampur, Malaysia

A sleep in was needed by all. Packed up our bags and stored them in the lobby of the guesthouse so we could check out the central market. Tourism KL ranks it as one of the top things to do in KL. Maybe shouldn't be in the top.

It consists of inside and outside stalls selling very junky souvenirs, clothing and fabric. The fabric is not cotton or silk despite what they say. Levi found a batman belt, that I think will be a great accessory for his wardrobe (once he stops wearing sweatpants and athletic shorts).

By the time we finished with the market and found there to be no samosas in the area, we rode the bus back to the guesthouse to collect our packs.

A few months ago in an attempt to subdue some boy's tears of homesickness and sadness, I booked an amazing apartment in KL. This apartment has a swimming pool on the 51st floor looking at the Petronius Twin Towers and the KL Tower. It has been like a carrot on a stick.

In the afternoon we rode the bus to find our new temporary home. The ride was slow in some bottlenecked sections. The walk dangerous, as the motorists do not give way to pedestrians.

Pedestrians need to be on the lookout for sudden, deep holes or loose man-hole covers.


I would much rather walk in Saigon amid thousands of scooters then cross the street here. There is some crazy flow of give and take in Saigon that is drastically missing here. None-the-less we arrived in the lobby safe and sound.

WOW!

On the 30th floor we can see for miles if it is not too hazy. A great kitchen, however, not supplied with many cooking utensils. Oh well, it has a clothes washer, two bathrooms, two bedrooms and is spotless!

We explored to find the pool - an infinity one on the 51st floor, a gym, library and 2 restaurants.

The pool is infinity. A three foot ledge will stop the fall out the side.

The view - spectacular. Hard to pass up as this apartment that costs less than sleeping in a hostel in Singapore and the same price as pitching a tent on gravel at Byron Bay, Australia. The dollar goes far here.

On our way to the next door mall to pick up groceries, we got sidetracked by the movie theatres. Spider-Man Homecoming was playing. Hard to pass that up as well. Watching a movie transplants you into another place. When it is over, you loose track of where you are and need to be transported back to the present.

The movie was excellent! It was frequently quoted throughout the night. We found the supermarket to be modern and large, only the meat area has rank smell. Spaghetti was the repeat request. Easy enough!

We're Not in Singapore Now Dorothy

July 25, 2017

Singapore to Kuala Lampur, Malaysia

Our day started and ended with jam packed trains. The middle part consisted of trains, but those were more comfortable.

Singapore's clean, efficient subway. No garbage to be found (and no spit!)

The border crossing between Singapore and Malaysia sounded confusing when we first looked into the land crossing. Not so. The early morning commute on the subway out of Singapore connected us with a bus that took us to the Border, picked us up on the other side,  drove over the causeway of no-man’s-land to go through passport control on the Malaysian side. 

Singapore check point for passports.


The boys were a little gun shy of travelling by train after the Vietnamese experience. What a difference riding in Malaysia makes. Trains are clean, leave on time, no chaos in the train station, no jumble of people, no slop of rice congee going up and down isles, no cockroaches or mice. The AC a bit high but we came ready with sweaters and sleeping bags. As Levi says “Here, you wouldn’t mind doing it again.”

Note the clean floors, unstained fabric seats, no one sleeping in the aisle - wow! Everyone is tired from the late nights in Singapore. Good time to catch a snooze.

We rode for 4.5 hours to Gemas and changed to the electric train for the 2.5 hours to Kuala Lampur. Even nicer.

The scenery is so jungle. It looks more domesticated though, with groves of coconut and other palm trees.

Total journey cost from Singapore to KL = $15/pp.

We arrived during peak hours to ride the monorail from KL Sentral to the Orange Pekoe Guesthouse. Pushing, murmuring excuse me, and the weight of the backpacks helped secure a position on the packed train. The surrounding bodies were what was keeping us upright.

The Orange Pekoe is a little dodgy looking from the outside, but nice on the inside. More mosquitoes in here than anywhere else on the trip.

Views from our rooms.

Inside common areas and rooms are nice.

The amount of garbage and the overly aggressive hawkers on the food street made us realize we are no longer in Singapore. It is good to visit what is probably the most beautiful city in the world, but everything after does not compare.

Crowded, aggressive, noisy, food street.

KL has been a signal point for the trip. Today, the fact that we will sleep in KL (not just pass through like we have done twice already) means we have made it. It has been a constant reference made by the boys "How many more weeks/days till KL?"  KL is the departure point for Japan. Japan is the last stop, but it is the icing on the cake.

Last Day in Singapore

July 24, 2017
Singapore

Klinger has really surprised me. Just before going to sleep a few minutes ago he said "Today went too fast." and "We should come back here next summer." For a kid whose only future travel plans were going to Houston so he could see the Texans play and Vegas to watch American Ninja Warrior finals, this is shocking. But Singapore sure is nice! We all could stay on a few more days but time is ticking on the travel clock.

Today started with Clark's Quay. A busy restaurant and walking area along the water.

Our walk along the water heading towards Merlion was rewarded in what we were hoping to find - the true Singaporean ice-cream sandwich. A man and his wife had a refrigerated unit  attached to the side of a motorbike and were busy slicing ice cream blocks into 1 inch slabs and wrapping them with either wafers or bread. They told us they had been doing this for 27 years. I thought they looked familiar (ha ha). Twenty years ago Jack and Kenny had been eager customers for this treat. The price has not gone up - still $1 but he has expanded the choice of flavors from just vanilla or chocolate. The boys are busy putting together a business plan for Jack and I to operate such a prosperous business as the true ice cream sandwich when we retire. It may pay better than teaching after watching the number of customers this pair had.

A goldmine operation - 27 years!

A short walk and we were at the promenade beside Merlion. The view of the Sands Inn (boat building) from another side.

With stomachs full of ice cream we were off to Little India. Just like Georgetown, Little India in Singapore offers the smells, food, clothing, music of India only in a safer and much cleaner environment. As soon as we got off the subway I could smell curry and turmeric.

(The mannequins do not match the clothes)

Some lunch of samosas, vegetable biryani and naan and off to China town.

Immediately off the subway and the market for parts of the pig we usually don't see; snout, ears, tongue and feet. There was a line up to buy it.

The streets are busy and lined with touristy souvenir shops. The boys each picked something.

A hawker stall in this community has been awarded one Michelin Star for his food. The judges said they go by the food not the venue. We needed to check this out. The hawker stall was closed for the day by the time we got there, but the success of the award had the owner open up a restaurant on the same street. Most dishes are still under $5. Where can you eat at a restaurant given this rating for $5?

 Hawker Chan cooks over 200 chickens a day. The queue is usually long.

The food was OK, but can't say it tastes any different than what we have eaten in Malaysia and Singapore so far.

It seems like it was a day of eating, but I think the portions were small (maybe) and the boys were determined to have another ice cream sandwich. Seconds it was.

We people watched by the river for awhile and did some goofy pictures waiting for the laser show to start. Nate wanted to watch it from the other side of the river tonight.

Beautiful Singapore!