Horrible

July 3, 2017
Vientiane, Laos to Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Horrible is the only word I can think of that adequately describes Phnom Penh. OK, maybe stinky, filthy, noisy come to mind. I can only compare it to cities I have been to in India. Years ago Karen drove through Gary, Indiana and the analogy she made was: when bad people die, they go to hell. When really bad people die, they go to Gary, Indiana. I am not sure what type of people end up here. I have not been to Gary, Indiana but I wonder if it holds a candle to Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

We left the quiet, gentleness of Laos aboard  Vietnam Airlines flight 921. The flight lasted 1 hour 15 minutes arriving ahead of schedule in Phnom Penh. The visa application was quick and efficient and Canadians were charged the same amount as every other nationality. A driver was waiting at the entrance to take us to our hotel.

Back to busy, congested streets. Crossing streets will no longer be easy and we will feel we have survived some great feat each time we do. All around looks like construction or deconstruction, I can't tell which. Garbage piled in heaps; at least to my waist in areas. Horrible!

Our peaceful courtyard in Vientiane.

Avert, Ans and the crew waiting for the flight.

This is our first experience with a "Boutique" hotel. Now, I have learned not to be too swayed by the pictures shown on line and what a property really looks like. This was no exception. The word "Boutique" tends to draw the Western mind to think of something luxurious. Asia uses this term a little loosely. There is nothing wrong with the hotel. In fact our room is enormous. Two large bedrooms, one with a sitting area, a large bathroom and we have a pool and deck at our disposal. However, luxurious it is not. Luke described the odor that seems to seep out of some pipe in the bathroom as asparagus bred with cabbage. The hallways are all open to the outdoors so the noxious smells of the city seep in.

After settling in, Jack and I needed to find something for our hungry boys to snack on. I was feeling so disgusted regreted prepaying for three nights in this dump of a city. I had read how many people avoid PP and move straight to Siem Reap. Why couldn't we be one of them?

The man at the front desk was so kind and helpful. I asked him where we should go to eat supper in the evening. He directed us to a restaurant on a neighboring street. We walked over to scope out the menu and retreated. Numerous insects prepared using different cooking techniques along with stuffed toad were some of the starters.

At the end of our street is the largest market - Central Market. This large, yellow, dome covered market sells everything from jewelry to clothing to cleaning supplies to produce and other food. We walked to the far end to find the food. The smells made my stomach lurch. The fish was definitely fresh as it was still squirming and slithering. The majority of the food I did not know what it was and was overwhelmed with the amount of trash and decomposing matter that would be overpowering to any nose. We finally found something that resembled an angel cake and bought it. That, and 3 Fanta we were trying to find our way out. Reaching daylight I looked in the bag at the cans of Fanta and threw them out. Too much sand and dirt on the tops that I did not think anyone should ingest.

Luckily we happened upon a real supermarket on our way back. It was clean, had shelves and food we could identify. Ashlee- we even found Tim Tams! Maybe we won't starve here.

American dollars are used as frequently as Cambodian riel.

We arrived back at the hotel the same time as Ans and Avert. From her expression I knew she had the same impression as we did.

Need to book tickets tomorrow to make sure we get out on schedule.

Saigon looks like utopia next to this.

Vientiane

July 2
Vientiane, Laos

Turns out there are quite a few runners in Vientiane. More than I have seen in other parts of SE Asia. The path along the Mekong this morning was not only used by me but others found it a good place to exercise.

Decided we would set off earlier to see some sights and be back earlier to escape some of the heat. The streets of Vientiane seemed particularly quiet this morning. It is the quietest Asian capital I have ever visited, but especially low traffic this Sunday morning. Near our place is the Laos version of the Arc du Triumph. It was built in the 1950s to commemorate soldiers. It is now a popular gathering place.

Onward another 2 km to That Luang. Laos's most important religious building.

Ice cream was needed to make the walk back more bearable.

The afternoon was spent by the boys doing some reading and drawing and by me planning. I know where we will sleep for the next 7 nights. Yeah!!!! I will not miss all this planning when I get home.

Nate pulled out another tooth. That is number 7. The Laotian tooth fairy has been kept busy and may run out of kip if Nate stays too long.

Our anniversary today. Jack said he would choose a place for dinner. He went out in the afternoon scouting. His criteria was it needed to be someplace we could sit down. This was his choice. The owner was friendly and was trying to teach Luke some Lao words.

Last night Luke had a haircut. This was an in-depth process involving a 10 minute hair wash and head massage. Then the detailed, careful haircut, followed by another rinse of the hair. Lastly, the blow-dry and final cut. It was worth the wait. The last haircut was in Naracorte and the boys rated it the best by a pierced, tattoo covered barber. Luke thought the Laotian cut was the best ever.

Nate thought it looked so good that he signed up tonight. He was mostly in it for the head massage.

Off tomorrow to the airport for the flight to Phnom Penh. That city will not be as relaxed as this one.

Happy Canada Day

July 1
Vientiane, Laos

Breakfast in the courtyard, in humid heat with geckos crawling along the wall, covered by the shade of a heavily laden mango tree. Not my typical Canada Day. Jack wore a red t-shirt and with that we considered ourselves festive.

(the pancakes tasted like Aunt Jemima)

Missing the "first day of summer holidays" and the Manitoba summer, we face timed home to Larissa, Dale and Leigh. Soon enough we will be home but now it feels like we are missing out.

I was frustrated with my boys this morning and grouchy since I felt they were not taking an active enough learning role in this world tour adventure. I felt tired from being the leader and having to be responsible to plan everything. I wanted the next time I traveled to be with more actively involved planners, rather than followers.

My first world problems were soon quashed. We visited the COPE center this morning (cooperative orthotic and prosthetic enterprise). Laos is considered the most bombed country in the world. Many bombs were dropped on Laos during the Vietnam war. Some did not go off as planned and continue to be a hazard today.

These bombies are still found today. Education is trying to reach the children who want to collect these for the money they can get from scrap metal. They know they are dangerous but are tempted by the potential income.

Instead of being sad though, it is quite sobering to think how safe a life my family and I live. This center was uplifting to hear the success stories and ongoing work that is happening to support not only people affected by bombs, but those affected by leprosy, accidents and polio.


The walk back was hot, but the streets are interesting. Mini temples burn incense in homes, shops and restaurants.

An interesting alley.

Many temples and offerings for sale along the street.

I can't help but think my Mom would be happy to see women successfully preparing multiple tasty dishes in a very small, cluttered area. They do it in Laos too Mom!

This was Jack's tasty meal. Banh Xan

An egg like pancake holding tofu, vegetables and coated in a peanut sauce.

I still have not found love of Vientiane like Max did, but I will say like.

Sabaidee - Hello

June 30
Vientiane, Laos

The bus ride was not entirely what we had expected, but from what I had read that's exactly what to expect in Laos. We were told a 12 person bus with luggage stored inside. A larger mini bus showed up (on time) and loaded our luggage on the roof. We were told we would have to wait to leave town until the bus was full. Luckily the wait was short and we were not delayed.

Waiting for bus at our hotel on one of the loungers.

The scenery was not as spectacular as the last road trip through Laos, but it was twisty and our surly bus driver had a schedule to keep. Needless to say, we arrived ahead of schedule and were promptly ripped off by a taxi driver on the way to our hotel. Ans and Avert have somehow managed to stand us this long and we are happy to have their company.

 A village along the road.

A pit stop about half way. Levi's stomach not liking the twisty road.

The street front view of our hotel is small and nondescript. We were happy to walk through to this scenic courtyard. Not a long wait for the room to be ready.

The night markets are set up along the Mekong River. We were sadly disappointed to find rows of a kilometer long stalls of glorified dollar store items. The smell of plastic and knock off clothing was definitely present.

These fruit shakes have become a meal replacement for me in this heat. In VV they were so delicious. Finding a stall last night that served them we found out they could not be replicated. Luke lost interest in his after he saw the lady lick the spoon to test his before serving it to him.
 I told him whether at home or abroad it is best not to watch your food being prepared.

Supper of a donner kebob was delicious. The boys want a repeat tomorrow. A wrap filled with curry flavoured chicken, mayo, hot sauce, coleslaw, cucs, tomatoes and lettuce. Yum!

Nate had his eye on a chocolate covered donut for dessert and would not let us forget we had promised it to him. I felt so bad for him when it looked like a chocolate covered donut, but tasted like a four day old donut. Trying to get the boys to stay away from western food or at least lower their expectations. Asians who visit Manitoba must think the same thing in reverse.

A few rounds of blitz before bed.

Nate practicing catch and release.

Max told us he loved the city of Vientiane. I will continue to look for the love tomorrow.

One of the best days of my life

June 29
Vang Vieng, Laos

And the rain came down! The wet season is exactly that - wet. It rains every day; sometimes pours, sometimes rains. This morning it poured. The boys had gone up the mountain to zip line 16 runs. Nate was so nervous about going, but upon return was totally pumped. It helped that they joined Geoff, Hudson and Jordan.

Nate and Jordan.

I stayed back and did some planning for the next few weeks.

The afternoon we set out on the river again this time in tubes to float our way the 8 km to Vang Vieng.

Although the route was the same as yesterday, this scenery never gets old. The current is fast enough this time of year that the ride takes half the time it does in the dry season. A relaxing day on the river that will be hard to rival. I never want to forget. The company was good and the scenery spectacular.

Two stops for refreshments at the two bars that are still open. Steph and Nick waited for us at the first stop.The kids were disgusted by the behaviour and party games westerners partake in while drinking beer. I hope this attitude lasts a few more years. The Australian waitress dressed in a bikini still smoking and drinking as we found her yesterday, apologized for us having come on such a slow day. We thought it was perfect having the river mostly to ourselves. The Laos children who have grown up along this river must have a very strange view of western people.  The stereotypes created in their minds will be hard to change as they age. It is not a flattering stereotype.

Nate and Levi had their first experience with a squatty potty today. The "bathroom" was in a private wooden stall, but it consisted of an Asian toilet and a 20 gallon barrel of water. The woman ahead of me made me think it was a shower instead of a toilet. The amount of sloshing and water oozing out underneath the wall of the stall was steady. So much for underground sewers. That was a lot of water!

Landed back in town later in the afternoon, returned the tubes and headed back to shower.

The crew.

The evening had us explore the abandoned airstrip used in the movie Air America where night markets are set up on certain days of the week. A few local food stalls were set up, but no other market.

A Korean BBQ was the choice for supper.

A sad farewell as we will head to Vientiane tomorrow morning and Geoff and the boys and Nick and Steph are staying on for a few days. It has been a fabulous few days! Some of the best.